Oh Is there a dog AND a cat????

Nope--we think! Scientists believe that canines can see part of the range of colors in the visible spectrum. Humans like you can see all the colors--red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet--but dogs probably see mostly in shades of yellow and blue. But remember, this is only a THEORY, since we can't really find out if a color appears the same way to dogs as it does to people.

Well the answer to your question is a mystery to me--and to the many scientists who have studied cats and cannot figure out exactly why they purr! If you have a kitty, you've probably heard that familiar rumble when you pet her or when she's sitting all content and cozy on your lap--there can be no doubt she's all-out happy! But cats also purr when they are really sick or really scared. Some researchers say that perhaps they are trying to comfort themselves.

They don't call them BOW WOWS for nothing. Dogs bark for many reasons. It's their way of saying, "Hey, I'm here! Come over and see me!" to their human families and other pooch pals. Dogs also bark to warn their owners about intruders on their turf--and to scare these intruders away. Canines bark to get attention, too. When you are watching your favorite TV show, has your dog ever parked himself in front of you and went "WOOF! WOOF! WOOF!" until you threw his tennis ball?

Good question! A six-month-old kitten is like a person who's just entering the teen scene. By the end of his first year, a cat is equivalent to a 21-year-old person--because that's when both species reach full size and when their bones stop growing. After that, every cat year equals four people years. "A 20-year-old cat would be like a 101-year-old person. So how old are YOU in cat years?

Yup! In fact, you may have already trained your kitty. Does she come running when she hears a can of food being opened or when you get home from school

The trick is to figure out what motivates your cat--and offer that as a reward when she does what you want. Some cats are chow hounds, so you can use food to teach them to "come" or "sit." If your feline will follow a feather wand anywhere, use that to lure her through a kitty agility course. She'll probably never be the next Air Bud, but you can still have lots of fun training her!

Whether or not you have relatives, the most important thing is to find someone who will take good care of your pet. First, be sure the person wants to take on the job. Then, specify in your will that you wish to leave the pet to that person. It would also be a nice gesture -- although by no means legally required -- to leave the caretaker a chunk of change in your will to compensate him or her for the task. (You can't leave money directly to your pet. Much as we may feel that pets are family, the law views them as property.) If you're unable to find someone both willing and able to take care of your pet, you may still have options. All around the country, programs are springing up to provide loving homes for pets after their owners die. For example, a number of SPCAs have created programs to find good homes for pets of deceased SPCA members. And several veterinary schools have set up programs that provide lifetime care for animals whose owners leave substantial endowments to the school. For more information, contact local SPCAs and similar organizations, or a veterinary school near you.

Because both dogs are young, this transition will be a little less stressful for you than if the dogs were older. Introducing pets that are not too set in their ways usually makes things easier. It also helps that one dog is female; female dogs tend to be more accepting of outsiders than a more dominant male.

It is helpful to try to introduce them very gradually. It would be a good idea if the dogs could meet for the first time on neutral territory. Try taking them to a park or some location that is not on either one of their "turfs." Keep the dogs on leashes and allow them to sniff each other but do not give them the opportunity to fight. This interaction will give you a starting point. If there is aggression on neutral territory it may be quite difficult to move them in together.

It will be very important for you to reinforce the dominance hierarchy once established. This means that when one dog establishes itself as the top dog and wants attention you must give it to the dominant dog and rebuff the other if it comes seeking attention. This may be hard for you to do as most people feel for the "underdog." Unfortunately, if you push the dominant dog away to pet the dog of lower status, it can cause the top dog to punish the other pet.

In most cases there will not be an altercation, but be prepared for one anyway. Keep your pets on leashes even in the house. DO NOT GET BETWEEN FIGHTING DOGS. Even if your pets love you, when they are fighting they may bite you. Use their attached leashes to separate them.

Remember that gradual introduction is the key. Do not expect them to be best friends right away; tolerance is a good thing too.

Talk to your veterinarian. If there are problems, the doctor is your best source of information. If the problems are significant he or she may also recommend that a short course of medication is necessary to facilitate the transition.

Spaying won't cure an anal sac problem.

The fact that her "scent sacs," or anal sacs, filled up and had to be expressed was probably not because she was in heat. We don't completely understand at this time why anal sacs become overfilled and sometimes go on to develop into an impaction or abscess.

The anal sacs are located at approximately four and eight o'clock within the anus. These sacs act as reservoirs for the secretions produced by the anal glands. Some dogs, especially small breed dogs, do tend to have problems with their anal sacs accumulating secretions from these glands, becoming inflamed, impacted, and sometimes even forming an abscess.

However, the accumulation of fluids may be due to allergies or periodic soft stools or diarrhea, which Pita may have been experiencing when she entered her heat cycle. Now that she is spayed, you should have her sacs checked by your veterinarian in about three months to see if they are full. If she starts to scoot or lick the anal area, have her checked by your veterinarian sooner.

It may very well be that your dog's anal sacs will still have to be expressed every few months, depending on how quickly they fill up. Your veterinarian will be able to guide you on how often the sacs will need to be expressed.

Feline acne is an idiopathic (cause not known) disorder of the hair follicles that is rarely curable. Poor grooming, a tendency for excessive oil production, stress and other factors have all been suggested as playing a role in its development; however, the cause is not clearly established. The main, full-blown lesion is a plugged hair follicle that becomes infected with bacteria and may drain serous fluid or pus. The condition may be so severe that the lips become swollen and the chin scarred.

Other conditions may mimic feline acne in the early, follicular-plugging stage. These include ringworm, mange mites or a superficial yeast infection, which can be verified or ruled out by culture, skin scraping, and cytology.

A few simple blackheads, or comedones, may be unsightly, but not a problem for the cat.

Treatment is generally reserved for patients with clinical signs of infection, drainage or swelling.

Topical therapy is indicated in all treatment regimens, with an effort to gently dislodge or dissolve the material plugging the follicles. Warm water soaks and antiseborrheic shampoos are frequently recommended for daily or twice weekly use.

There are topical agents available through veterinarians, such as benzoyl peroxide and Retin-A that may be indicated in some cases, but they may be too irritating for some cats. Antibiotics and fatty acid supplements may also be required. Other systemic medications, beyond antibiotics and fatty acid supplements, are reserved for severe, refractory cases. Consultation with a veterinary dermatologist is advisable in such cases.

Your veterinarian should have the opportunity to re-examine your cat if the condition is not resolved. He or she can assess whether more aggressive treatment is indicated or if more antibiotics are required.

Unfortunately, this is one of the most common behavioral complaints of cat owners.

There are several factors that may contribute to cats defecating inappropriately. Environmental or social stress, personal preferences or changes in personal preferences, or medical problems may cause this behavior.

Although most feline elimination disorders are behavioral, to rule out a medical problem, your veterinarian will need to do a complete physical examination, urinalysis, and a fecal exam. If your cat is middle-aged or older, then the doctor may also opt to perform bloodwork including a complete blood count and a chemistry panel. Cats with feline lower urinary tract disease or cystitis may begin to defecate and/or urinate outside the litter box.

It can be difficult to determine whether cats begin defecating outside of the box because they have developed a disliking to a certain litter, or to a location, as opposed to simply preferring to defecate in the new location.

The development of a disliking or aversion to a particular substrate or litter is much more likely than avoidance of a particular location. Cats can develop an aversion to anything from clumpable litter, to an odor, to certain noises, to extraneous smells, and many other things.

If possible, offer the affected cat a wide variety of different types of cat litter in a combination of different depths. You could try changing the litter and leaving the box in the same location. In addition, providing a second litter box in the area that has been chosen as the unwanted place to defecate may be helpful. Some cats require separate litter boxes for urination and defecation. Generally, if there are elimination problems in the house, each cat should have at least one box. And there should be at least one box per floor in multi-floored homes.

Cats typically do not develop aversions to locations, but they may if the litter box is associated with the presence of any undesirable individual such as another cat, a dog, or a child. Perhaps your cat had a bad experience while at the previous litter box. Another pet could have disturbed your cat while it was defecating, causing it to have a negative association with the box. Also, if the litter box is close to a television, alarm clock, or other noisy object, your cat may have developed an aversion to defecating there.

It is a good idea to place another litter box in a new location where your cat has begun defecating. You can use the same litter and the same box, or buy another box. If your pet begins to use the new box, then gradually move the box an inch each day until it is in a more desirable spot. If you move the litter box too quickly, however, the cat may relapse. In addition, if another pet begins tormenting the affected cat while it defecates in this new place, then the problem may begin again.

Something else to consider is the personality of your cat. Shy cats may need a covered litter box. Another idea is to place your cat?s food and water in the bedroom to see if this deters him; most pets will not defecate in the same area that they eat.

You could also try a scat mat. These are sold at many pet stores, and they send a mild shock when an animal stands on them. Yet, although a scat mat may deter defecation in the bedroom, your cat may very well pick another inappropriate place.

If your cat is medically normal, and other behavioral techniques have been exhausted, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment with anti-anxiety medications. Consult your veterinarian about this problem for more information and suggestions. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights.

Cats by nature absolutely love to stretch and scratch certain surfaces. Scratching allows the cat not only to stretch, but to sharpen their claws and mark their territory. This is a very normal behavior for all cats, but sometimes the cat chooses scratching sites that are not particularly ideal- the new couch that was just delivered, you with your new pants on, or the expensive sheers hanging in the window! Obviously these are not ideal surfaces and the cat's behavior must be curbed. Most cats can be trained to use a scratching post instead of the alternatives. This is done by first purchasing a scratching post that has a wide base, is secure, at least two to three feet tall, and has a rough surface on it that is attractive to the cat- such as burlap or wound rope. It must have these features because the cat has to be able to stand up and pull down on the post to scratch and stretch, yet not pull it over. These posts can be made or purchased from many different stores.

Training begins with placing the scratching post where the cat sleeps or somewhere that it enjoys hanging out. Then, carry your cat to the scratching post, gently take its front feet, and rub them up and down on the post. If the cat struggles or is scared, don't restrain it or continue to frighten it- remember this must be fun! The key is repetition, and gradually your cat will learn that the scratching post is an approved surface to destroy at any time.

It is also important that you realize cats can be trained, and you must teach the cat that scratching the curtains, couch, your new pants, or any place besides the scratching post is unacceptable. This may involve using a squirt gun, loud noise, or something else that alerts the cat while it's scratching off-limit places. Never strike or hit the cat as this will cause more harm than good. Be patient and don?t give up repetition is important.

If you have tried unsuccessfully to train your cat and are considering giving it up, declawing is another option. This is only to be done on cats that are strictly indoors. Only the front feet should be declawed. The back feet are usually not a problem and are left alone so that if the cat were ever to get outside, it could still climb up a tree or partly defend itself. Owners should be aware that several prominent animal welfare organizations are opposed to declawing cats. For example, the Humane Society will not adopt out a cat if an owner plans to declaw it.

Declawing is best done at the time of spaying or neutering- approximately five to six months of age. This procedure can be done very humanely with the use of pain medications. Pain management has the best results if it is started approximately 15 to 20 minutes before the surgery and continued for the next 24 to 48 hours. There are many different pain medications that can be used safely by veterinarians in cats, and they are relatively inexpensive and very effective! They ensure a pain-free experience and allow the cat to rest comfortably for the next 24 to 48 hours. This also helps the cat to not associate the veterinarian with a negative experience! Consult with your veterinarian about the use of medications such as butorphanol, fentanyl patches, morphine, and buprinex.

There are other surgical procedures that are available, such as "tenectomy" (or tendonectomy). This procedure involves cutting out part of the tendon that controls the cat?s ability to use its claws- flex and extend them. The claws are not actually removed as they are in a declaw procedure, but they are left permanently extended. This means the cat can no longer control its claws to scratch up surfaces, but they are still able to grow. The claws have to be trimmed every 4 to 8 weeks for life because the nails tend to overgrow and can turn into the pads of the paw causing pain and infection.

Consult with your veterinarian about these options and alternatives to declawing your cat. Also discuss pain management options with your veterinarian. There is no reason for animals to have to experience any pain today because of the availability of so many safe pain medications.

So your friend starts sneezing and breaks out in hives when she sits on your sofa. You?ve even tried putting Fluffy upstairs and vacuuming thoroughly, but that doesn?t help your friend very much. You heard about a special shampoo that might help, but Fluffy has to be sedated in order to be bathed. What else can you do.

Unfortunately, the best control method for allergies is avoidance of the allergen. If someone in your house is allergic to a pet, the pet will need to be removed from the environment permanently. Dog or cat allergen is present both on the animal and in its environment. Even after the pet has been removed, it takes months for allergen levels to decrease. Finding the animal a home with a family member or close friend may be a good option in some cases.

Some pet owners are very reluctant to find another home for their pet and wish to try other alternatives. A pet shampoo called Allerpet was developed to try to reduce the allergen levels of pets. However, it is not known how effective this shampoo is in reducing the overall amount of allergen in the environment of the animal.

Dealing with pet allergies can be frustrating and sad. Some people are so sensitive that they react to allergen carried into the house on the clothing of someone that has been around animals. For children, the best solution is to look into alternative pets with which they may connect, such as fish. Consult a medical doctor regarding available treatments that may allow mild allergy sufferers to live more comfortably with animals.

Hairballs are a common problem in cats that groom themselves frequently, as well as in those that have long hair. When a cat grooms itself, it swallows hair, and over time the hair can accumulate within the stomach. Eventually, the hair causes enough irritation to the stomach that the cat will vomit it up.

Owners may opt to use hairball remedies such as Laxatone, which contain ingredients such as petroleum jelly that help bind the hair in the stomach and move it into the intestines and passed in the feces. A cat treated with such a remedy will defecate the hairball instead of vomiting it.

Laxatone treatment initially is given daily for about a week, and then every couple of days thereafter for maintenance. Some cats need treatment only every few weeks to keep hair from accumulating. For those cats that reject Laxatone, there are now hairball diets and treats available that claim to decrease problems with hairballs. If a cat continues to vomit, have it examined by a veterinarian to be sure that the vomiting truly is caused by hairballs and not by an underlying disease. Cats that swallow string or toys may also vomit, but the ingesting of foreign objects is a more serious condition that requires veterinary attention.

This is a callus. Most dogs that sleep on hard surfaces, such as cement, wood, or tile, will develop calluses over their elbows, hocks or any other bony areas. Large breed dogs and overweight dogs are especially susceptible to the condition. The callus develops from pressure and friction to help protect the skin from damage.

Providing padded bedding often is very helpful in preventing the callus from worsening. All larger breeds should be given a thicker bed of some kind to prevent excessive pressure on the bony parts of the body. Foam rubber mats, air mattresses, and straw shavings all will provide support to protect against callus formation. Some people even have used elbow pads or foam placed around the dog?s elbows to prevent calluses.

A callus is rarely a medical problem, unless it becomes ulcerated and subsequently infected. A veterinarian will be able to verify if the callus is problematic.

My dog has very bad breath. I give him Milk Bones regularly and brush his teeth, but it does not help. What can I do to eliminate the odor.

Consult a veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and treat accordingly.

Bad breath, or halitosis, can be caused by many different medical and dental problems?some of which may be serious. Because a potentially serious problem may be the cause of your dog's bad breath, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian for an examination to determine the cause. Some smaller breeds of dogs, such as poodles and Schnauzers, are well known for being predisposed to dental disease. Brachycephalic, or short-headed, dog breeds like the pug and bulldog also have a higher risk of developing dental problems.

Bad breath in dogs may be due to dental disorders such as periodontal disease, gingivitis and plaque buildup on the teeth, significant oral cavity disease such as abscesses, sores or ulcers, decaying tissue associated with cancer, and infections. Kidney and other organ system disease and diabetes and other metabolic problems may also cause halitosis.

Although some tartar control treats and brushing are helpful, if your dog?s foul odor is due to plaque buildup, a professional dental cleaning will be necessary. More extensive dental problems may require specialized veterinary dental care. If other problems exist, such as infection, abscess, tumors, or metabolic or other systemic diseases, they will require veterinary attention. Please consult your veterinarian promptly.

My six-year old dog is very itchy. It started when we moved to Florida three years ago. He scratches his body and rubs his face on the carpet. When he is outside, he'll roll on the grass. What could cause the itching? Does he have an allergy to something? What can be done to treat it? Should he be on steroids?

Infection, allergies, behavioral problems and systemic disease may cause itching.

Persistent itching is a very common, nonspecific sign of an underlying problem in dogs. Itching is usually associated with dermatitis, which is inflammation or irritation of the skin. There are many conditions that cause dermatitis and prompt an affected dog to scratch or bite itself frequently. Causes of dermatitis include bacterial, fungal, yeast, or parasitic infection; seborrhea; food, fleabite, or inhalational allergies (atopy); behavioral problems; contact with an irritating substance; cancer; metabolic and endocrine disorders; drug reactions; exposure to toxins; breed-specific predisposition, nutritional deficiencies; and even sunburn. Treatment depends on the underlying cause of the signs.

From your description of your dog?s signs, it is very possible that your pet has allergies to one or more things. For example, he may be allergic to fleabites and to certain food types, or he may be experiencing seasonal allergies. It is also possible that he may have something else causing his problems.

You need to consult with your veterinarian. After giving your dog a physical examination, the doctor may decide that testing for the various causes of dermatitis is warranted. Some of the tests that your doctor may choose to do include scraping the skin to determine if mites (such as scabies) are present; plucking hairs and examining them under a microscope to search for evidence of fungal infection; cytologic examination of crust or exudate to look for any yeast overgrowth; and fungal cultures of the hairs to look for dermatophytosis (ring worm). Your veterinarian may find it necessary to perform a skin biopsy. He or she may also conduct some blood tests and urinalysis to determine thyroid disease or other systemic disorders are present.

The doctor may put your dog on a strict food trial for 10 to 13 weeks using a completely hypoallergenic diet with ingredients that your dog has never eaten before. This food trial helps determine if your dog has a food allergy or not.

These tests will help narrow the field of possible causes and allow your dog to be treated appropriately. Treatments include, but are not limited to, antibiotics, antifungals, shampoos and dips, dietary supplements and other oral medications, and allergy shots.

If your veterinarian feels that your dog needs specific allergy skin testing, he or she can refer you to a veterinary dermatologist in the area for a consultation. Skin tests involve injecting various substances into the dog?s skin and watching to see which, if any, cause a reaction. A dermatologist can then develop specific "allergy shots" to desensitize your dog to the substance or substances (called allergens) to which he is allergic.

If your dog has a specific allergy, allergy shots will result in a much more successful and safe treatment course for your dog in the long run. Corticosteroids, although very effective in some skin conditions, can cause serious side effects if overused. Your veterinarian may recommend using supplements such as an antihistamine, fatty acid capsules, and hypoallergenic shampoos containing oatmeal as well.

If your dog has fleas, he may be allergic to fleabites. The saliva of the flea is what causes the allergic skin condition. Fleabite allergy is very common and typically causes hair loss and scabbing on the back, abdomen and rear legs. You may want to talk to your veterinarian about putting your pet on a topical flea preventive that helps eliminate fleas and thus fleabites.

Place a rubber Mat under your litter box and you will save a lot of work cleaning up litter granuals. The mat will catch bits of litter that sticks to your cat's paws as it exits the box.

Siamese kittens are born a pale shade of cream, almost white. The color markings appear gradually. As they grow older, their fur may darken and darker hairs appear on their points- the muzzel, ears, paws and tail.

Some cats are noise sensitive, scampering for safety when startled by a sound. You can accustom them to noise by having someone repeatedly close doors and drawers gently while you pet and soothe the cat. Set the mood with soft music playing in the background.

Feral cats in general are cats who live on the streets. These cats may live in parks, alleys, woods, abandoned lots and even in your back yard. They came about because of human neglect of their unaltered domestic cats. Humans allow their domestic cats to roam and reproduce. Humans also abandon, dump or throw away unwanted cats, and these cats end up in feral cat colonies.

Stray and lost cats will congregate near food sources. This may be near dumpsters, garbage cans and homes that have other animals where food is left out. These unaltered cats WILL breed and form colonies. There is an estimated 60 million feral cats in the United States alone. Just imagine what the number is worldwide.

THREE CLASSES OF FERAL CATS

Class One:

This is a true feral cat. This is a second generation cat that was born of a feral cat. These cats are very frightened of humans. If you are able to get near them, they will, growl, hiss, scratch and possible bite you. It is very difficult to socialize these cats, but with a lot of dedication and work, some of these cats can be socialized.

Class Two:

These cats have recently been abandoned by their human owners. They will run from you, but not to far. They will be jumpy and scare easily. If you will feed them regularly, they will easily get close to you. After a while they may allow you to pet them, pick them up and become a part of your family. These cats are the easiest to socialize.

Class Three:

These cats are perhaps the saddest of all. They have been abused. They are terrified of humans but don’t have the knowledge of what it takes to survive on their own. These poor cats are rejected by established colonies. Some of these cats may be able to be re-socialized and some not. According to the level of abuse they sustained at the hands of their owners.

A feral cats life span is very short. If lucky, they may live 5 years, but normally, they only live 2 years (if that).